- Early spring buildup so you can make early splits.
- Buildup in preparation for pollination (especially almond pollination).
- To force building in preparation for a strong nectar flow.
- To encourage early drone rearing for preparation for raising early queens.
- To maintain drone and brood rearing though a strong dearth (again important for rearing queens in some areas)
In fact, a protein source (pollen or pollen substitute) is critical for raising drones which is very important for rearing queens. When there is a shortage of protein drone brood is the first to go and in severe dearths even adult drones may be removed from the hive. (Steve Taber covers this in his book ‘Breeding Super Bees’)
In warm weather when bees can fly open feeding dry pollen substitute is a good easy method of feeding and I use this method myself when possible. It is as simple as putting out a bucket on its side with pollen substitute in it. It creates quite a feeding frenzy but doesn’t seem to cause any fighting. Of course when the weather isn’t warm and dry this obviously wont’ work. Feeding pollen patties which are placed right in the hive is the solution. You can buy pre-made patties or you can mix your own.
Making Pollen Patties
Mixing pollen patties is fairly straight forward though the first time I mixed them up I made quite a sticky mess. Plus when mixing up more than just enough for a couple patties at a time it can take a long time if mixing by hand or with a small kitchen mixer. Hopefully the instructions here give you a few ideas to make it easier for you.
When mixing up small batches of pollen patties it probably isn’t worth buying the raw ingredients for the dry substitute and mixing it yourself. Complete pollen substitutes are available from many beekeeping suppliers. However, If you wish to mix them yourself links to pollen substitute recipes are listed below.
I use Bee-Pro from Mann Lake myself, though other substitutes will work as well. None of them are perfect replacement for pollen and you can add about 10% real pollen to the mix to improve acceptance and nutrition. However, be aware that bee pollen can carry American Foul Brood spores and can spread the disease. If you do use real pollen in the mix either collect your own pollen from hives you know are disease free or buy irradiated pollen.

A creaming screw normally sold for making creamed honey works well for mixing bucket quantities. A good 1/2″ drill with a relatively low RPM should be used. The typical inexpensive variable speed 3/8″ drills tend to be higher RPM and don’t have enough power at low RPM. The drill I used is a 1/2″ 7.5Amp 500RMP drill. Smaller quantities can be mixed by hand or a mixer with attachments for mixing bread dough.


![]() Scooping the pollen dough into the ‘envelope’. |
![]() Rolling the patty flat with a rolling-pin. |
![]() Sealing the ‘envelope’. |
Feeding the Bees


A smoker may be needed to drive the
bees down before placing the patty.
The patties are installed just like the pre-made patties. First, cut a V in the paper and peel it back exposing the pollen dough. Then open the hive exposing the top of the cluster. If the cluster is in a lower box you may have to remove the top box because the patty should be placed just above the cluster. You may have to smoke the hive and possibly use a bee brush to make the bees move down between the frames so you don’t squish the bees when placing the patties on. When feeding the bees sugar syrup at the same time with a top feed as I do, I will cut the patty in half so that the feeder that is placed over the hole in inner cover is not blocked.
![]() The patty placed on the hive. The patty was cut in half to avoid interference with syrup feeder placed over the hole in the inner cover. |
![]() Even before the cover of the hive was replaced the bees started consuming the pollen patty. |










